Hanbok Series Part 2: Colors & Styles

Throughout Korea's traditional culture, the underlying themes seem to have much to do with nature. This is largely due to the influence of Confucianism in Korea's history. Although Confucianism was introduced from China long before Buddhism, it wasn't until the introduction of a Neo-Confucian ideology that it began to be heavily implemented in public society. From about the 14th century onwards, or the beginnings of the Joseon Dynasty, Confucianism was the main system of belief among the Yangban 양반 (government officials and their immediate family; aristocracy) class, and this system carried over into everyday dress. 

In Joseon society, rigid class divides separated the Yangban from the commoners. Under Neo-Confucian ideology, each person had to be content with the class he or she was born into, and by law, these class distinctions were decidedly marked in clothing, particularly by the color and fabric options available. 

Colors and Fabrics

Sources: top- http://www.thekoreanbaby.com/sections/category/hanbok/

botto- http://12decemberprincess.blogspot.com/2011/08/hanbokapakah-ini.html

For the Yangban, fine fabrics such as silks were used in cool/cold weather, and closely woven ramie cloth, hemp, or similar cloth was used in warm weather. Generally, rich but subdued colors were worn by men and women, with bright colors often worn by children and unmarried young people. For women, the color of the Chima symbolized social status. For instance, a navy or purple skirt would indicate that a woman had given birth to a son.

Saekdong (색동), or a rainbow-patterned fabric was often worn on the sleeves of children aged 1-7, and this is still a very popular selection today. The  pattern symbolizes a calling to each of the five directions for their blessings, and wishing good health and long life.

Commoners were quite restricted in their clothing choices, with white cotton being the required everyday wear. For this reason, Koreans were long referred to as the "People in White." For special occasions, light shades of pink, green, gray, and charcoal were allowed. 

For government positions, such as the military or lower-ranking officials, there were various different uniforms, and rank was distinguished by subtle differences in these uniforms. 

Hanbok for palace maids were chiefly in bright colors, such as yellow jeogori and red chima. As a side note, inside the royal palace, one's rank could also be distinguished by subtle differences in dress and decoration, and some of the above regulations were enforced, but with a bunch of little nuances. However, this is a section that deserves its own post. (see part 2.2!)

So you see, one could tell a person's rank, social status, and even his or her personality by the wearer's Hanbok. Talk about high pressure choices!

While certain color combinations are still considered traditional for certain points in one's life, one's artistic side can be set loose. Still, it would be useful to keep in mind that generally, bright colors are often worn by young people, with subdued colors being worn by older folks. Also, according to Oriental philosophy, men belong to the east, which is represented by the color blue. According to the same philosophy, women belong to the south, whose color is red. This was reflected in dress, and is specifically carried over into wedding traditions today. The mother of the groom will wear a blue Hanbok while the mother of the bride wears a red-colored Hanbok. 

Source: http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/costume/StudentProj/hanbok/04.html

~The Yellow and Red combination is for young, unmarried women

~The Green and Red Hanbok is worn by brides to indicate marriage

~Dark blue skirt & Lilac top are for women in their 30s 

~Dark gray skirt & Red top are for women in their 40s

~Tan skirt & Orange top are for women who are older than 50 years of age

Styles
Interestingly, the Hanbok's style is said to have a duel existence. Hanboks worn by the Yangban were heavily influenced by foreign fashions, and an indigenous style of Hanbok was worn by the commoners.

In this selection, the Neo-Confucian values held heavy influence yet again. The foremost social values were honor in men and chastity in women, and these were incorporated into the Hanbok. In addition, the makeup of Korean culture is vividly expressed in the beauty and complex simplicity of the Hanbok. Hanbok is emotional in design, and the elegance of the style is created by an abundance of material, which draws a seamless mix of curved and straight lines, as mentioned in the first installment. 
The quality of a hanbok is judged by three things:

~Baerae, or the curve of the sleeves (which is said to mimic the eves on traditional Korean houses, Hanok)

~How the Otgoreum, or the bow unique to the Hanbok, lays against the Chima

~The way the Git, a white, replaceable band of fabric above the DongJeong (동전), or collar, is ended

Dangui 당의

   Dangui was the daily garment for court ladies, and for commoners, Dangui was worn for ceremonial occasions such as weddings during the Joseon Dynasty.

       The main characteristic of the Dangui is emphasis on the beauty of Hanbok’s curving lines.  The form is similar to that of Jeogori, however, the length of both the front and back is up to triple to that of a Jeogori, and sleeves are narrow with a curved hem. This style is elaborate, yet quietly exudes a dignified air.

The Hanbok in the photo above is reminiscent of what a member of the royal family would wear daily. Setting it apart from what others were allowed to wear are the gold Geumbak (flower) patterns around the bottom of the Chima and on the sleeves of the Dangui, and the decorations on the center and shoulders.

 It is difficult to find a picture of a plain Dangui, but this is similar to what commoners were allowed to wear for special occasions. Also some of the head court ladies were allowed to wear this style. 

There are two types of Dangui: a double layered Gyeop-Dangui (겹당의), and a single layered one Hot-Dangui (홑당의). The former was usually worn during winter while the single layered Dangui  was worn for summer. Women switched from single to double-layered Dangui the day after the Queen changed hers.

Fusion
Today, many young people are opting for a more modern style of Hanbok, called Fusion Hanboks. Fusion Hanboks are often made of light, airy material and they have several twists that would be out of place on traditional Hanboks, such as ruffles, layering fabrics, or combining several types of fabrics. Often, Jeogori are not worn with these styles, and if they are, the Jeogori can be made with sheer, light fabrics. 

My favorite Fusion Hanbok designer is Hanbok Lynn.  Here are several photos from a shoot last year. I love the scenery in the photos. The delicate backgrounds and lighting really emphasize the femininity of the Hanboks. Adding traditional instruments was a nice touch as well.